Geranium (3*) – Copenhaga

N: ”Marbeled hake, caviar and butter” and a voice makes me look up from the wide palm, with its extremely short nails and dry skin, to see the wrinkled sleeve, and then the half gentle, half shy look. It was Rasmus Kofoed or – pour les connoisseurs – the most decorated chef in the world,…

Marchal (1*), Hotel d’Angleterre, Copenhagen

N: No one knows what has brought Jean Marchal, a French stylist and make-up artist, to the 18th-century Copenhagen. It might have been the wind of prosperity that was fueling the clouds of the horrendous Nordic wars, or maybe the Danish appetite for Rococo which was slowly replacing late Baroque. It could have also been a…

2019

2019 N: No beginning is from zero, but actually predetermined, or at least conditioned by a previous history. No new start begins on the 1st of January, but rather flows more or less abruptly from December or sometimes even November of the previous year. 2019 couldn’t begin without a short retrospective of the year that…

Kaiamo – The New Wave Is Gaining Momentum

G: Just as I have anticipated, the presence of a prestigious guide among restaurants in Bucharest (although it’s not Michelin) has already started to create standards and the desire to surpass them. And because Gault Millau rewarded Modern Romanian Cuisine in its first edition, best interpreted by Alex Petricean at Maize and Alexandru Iacob at…

Era Ora (1*) – Copenhaga

G : In a city dominated by Nordic cuisine and under the strong influence of René Redzepi and his famous Noma (the most important gastronomic phenomenon of the decade, although it did not reach the momentousness of el Bulli), other fine dining restaurants hardly make room for themselves. But certain places somehow manage to come…

The Fat Duck, Bray, Berkshire – The Ultimate Restaurant Experience

N: You already know some of the details of our Windsor vacation. You also know that Windsor is very close to Bray, where we have already visited two famous restaurants – The Waterside Inn (3*) of the Roux brothers and The Hinds Head (1*), Heston Blumenthal’s gastropub. G: While we were thinking about a vacation…

Noma. The New Noma

N.: When you are number-one in the world, and thousands of people can hardly wait to visit your restaurant. When chefs all over the world consider you a demi-god among men. When you have managed to redirect global gastronomy entirely on your own, by revealing brand-new ways of cooking. How can you – under these…